My whole life is this one wave By Miki Dora

My whole life is this one wave. I drop into it, set the whole thing up, pull off the bottom turn, pull up into it, and go for my life... going for broke, man. And behind me, all the shit goes over my back: The screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, knee boarders, windsurfers. They're all going over the falls, headfirst into the reef. Splat. And I'm shooting for my life and if it starts to close out, I pull out to the bottom and out to the back. And I pick up another one and do the same goddamn thing."

Miki Dora


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